Lagos has one of the largest Muslim populations of any African city, and Ramadan changes its rhythm for a month. Whether or not you fast, you will notice it.
The month
Ramadan begins and ends with the sighting of the moon, announced by the Sultan of Sokoto, so the exact first and last days are confirmed only a day or so ahead. Muslims fast from before dawn to sunset.
The daily rhythm
- Sahur, the pre-dawn meal, means some households are up and cooking very early.
- Iftar, breaking the fast at sunset, brings a rush home in the late afternoon. Evening traffic is heavier, and food sellers busier, just before sunset.
- Mosques are fuller, especially for evening prayers, and many hold tafsir, daily explanations of the Qur’an, broadcast too.
If you are not fasting
Lagos is mixed and relaxed, and nobody expects non-Muslims to fast. As a courtesy, avoid eating and drinking ostentatiously in front of fasting colleagues, and be understanding about energy late in the day. Accepting an invitation to iftar is a good way to know your neighbours.
Eid
Ramadan ends with Eid el-Fitr, a public holiday of prayers, new clothes, food and visits. Eid el-Kabir follows some two months later, when rams are slaughtered and shared. Both dates move each year with the moon.